The peak of Nanga Parbat is 8,126 metres high, making it the highest mountain in the world. It is also known locally as Diamer, which means king of the mountains. The peak is popular among trekkers, as the views are breathtaking. There are several trekking routes on the mountain, and each one offers different experiences.
Mazeno Ridge
A new expedition is attempting the first ascent of the famous Mazeno Ridge in Nanga Parat, the ninth highest mountain in the world. The ridge is 10 km long and separates two faces of the mountain. The route crosses eight summits above 7000m. The team has not yet summited the mountain, but it’s a very challenging route that has inspired many climbers to try it.
Sandy Anderson, who led the expedition to the summit of Nanga Parbat in 2012, first tried Mazeno in 1992 on an expedition led by Doug Scott. The ridge was first climbed by British mountaineer Albert Mummery in the nineteenth century, but the German and Austrian mountaineers focused on it after the Second World War. Ultimately, Hermann Buhl led a team to the summit in 1953, and achieved the famous first ascent.
The ridge is named for the Mazeno Pass, which runs through it between Astore and Bunar. In the past, this route was used by bandits sneaking over from Chilas. Attempts on this route are increasingly difficult because of the high altitude and dangerous terrain.
Nanga Parbat is located on the western wall of the Himalaya. It is the ninth highest peak in the world and the second highest in Pakistan after K2. The mountain has a rich history and has staged some of the most famous Himalayan ascents. The first ascent was made by Hermann Buhl in 1953 and was followed by the first ascent by Reinhold Messner in 1970.
Mummery Rib
A search for the missing climbers of Nanga Parbat is underway. Two climbers, Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard, are missing in the mountain’s western face. They last signed in at 6300 meters on 24 February. The search is being carried out by a team of Pakistani and Italian mountaineers.
The two climbers have not been heard from since February 24, when their helicopters flew over the area. They were attempting to climb a new route up Mummery Rib, which runs up the center of Diamir Face. However, the ridge is prone to avalanches and falling seracs. Because of the unstable conditions, search teams have been delayed by avalanches and winter storms.
The Mummery Rib is the same route that Mummery took to ascend Nanga Parbat in 1895. The ridge begins on the Rakhiot glacier, and then heads up the centre of the Rakhiot Face. The Mummery Rib is a popular route for climbing Nanga Parbat, but it is not the only route. Hermann Buhl, a German mountaineer, opened a new route that starts from the Rakhiot glacier and then climbs to Rakhiot Peak, which is located east of the true summit.
In the winter of 2016, Simone Moro and a team of climbers made the first winter ascent of the mountain. The route was dangerously unstable, with car-sized chunks of falling ice. Simone Moro and her team eventually abandoned their attempt. Several days after the climb, the search for the climbers began.
The climbers who made it to the middle rib of Nanga Parbat, known as the Mummery Rib, were unable to summit the mountain in a single attempt. Nonetheless, the climbers considered the middle rib to be the toughest climb in the Alps, and they were not alone. The team also included Txikon and Sadpara.
Diamir Face
In the early 1900s, the first ascent of Nanga Parbat was made by Germans. They used the same route Buhl used in 1953 and climbed to the summit. Other members of the expedition made ascents of the SE peak (7600m) and the foresummit (7850m), which is located above the Bazhin Gap.
There are several routes to the summit of Nanga Parbat. The Diamir Face is the easiest to climb, and the easiest to reach. However, the route is not particularly steep and is not suitable for beginners. For more difficult terrain, the Rupal Face, Rakhiot Face, and Nagar Face are all accessible.
The mountain is located in the western Himalayas, in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is the ninth highest mountain in the world. The mountain is not part of the Karakoram range, but is separate from it by the Indus River. The mountain has attracted mountaineers since 1895, although only a few have achieved its summit.
Nanga Parbat is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world and has claimed more lives than any other 8000er. The first successful ascent was in 1953 by an Austrian-German Expedition. Hermann Buhl managed the final ascent in 41 hours by himself, without oxygen. Later, in 1970, Reinhold Messner and his brother Gunther Messner climbed the south face. Gunther Messner lost his life on the Diamir face during the expedition.
Rakhiot Flank
On July 3, 1953, Hermann Buhl became the first person to summit Nanga Parbat via the Rakhiot Flank. He was part of a German-Austrian expedition organized by Karl Herrligkoffer from Munich. Buhl was a first-time climber. At the time, 31 other climbers had died on the mountain.
The Nanga Parbat route starts from the base camp at just under 4000 meters. The route follows the north-east flank of the mountain and crosses the avalanche-prone Rakhiot Wall. The route then traverses the east ridge of the mountain and passes through the Bazhin Gap and Silbersattel Plateau.
In 1891, A. F. Mummery attempted to climb Nanga Parbat. He succeeded in reaching the summit of Nanga Parbat with the assistance of his team. However, on the second attempt, he died of altitude sickness and had to abandon the route. He was unable to climb the Direct South East Face. However, he was able to reach the Central Pillar.
The 1953 expedition established a series of camps on the north-east face of Nanga Parbat. Camp 3 was on the upper terrace of the Rakhiot Glacier. The expedition then moved from right to left on the northeast face, crossing the face beneath the Rakhiot peak. From there, the team gained access to the east ridge of Nanga Parbat.
In 1971, a Czech team made the same route as Buhl’s. After spending three weeks in camp IV, the team eventually reached camp V. They then moved to Camp VI, where they made the summit. Their main summit, the Rakhiot Needle, was a 20-m rock needle. They also climbed the Rakhiot Peak.
Reinhold Messner
Attempting to conquer Nanga Parbat is considered one of the hardest mountaineering feats. Günther and Reinhold Messner, who are brothers, attempted to scale the mountain on their own, but failed. Unfortunately, one of them died in the attempt.
The first ascent of Nanga Parbat was made in 1953 by Hermann Buhl, an Austrian mountaineer. It was only the third 8,000-meter peak to be climbed. Reinhold Messner was a guide for less experienced mountaineers and had led more than 500 ascents in the Dolomites by the time he was twenty. He also discovered 700 new routes in the region. In college, Messner studied architectural engineering. However, he spent his academic year climbing brick walls.
In the 1970s, Messner began to travel to faraway locations in search of new mountaineering challenges. He traveled to Persia, Nepal, New Guinea, Pakistan, and East Africa. His speedy approach and determination made him the fastest climber in the Alps. In 1972, he reached the summit of Manaslu in Nepal. A year later, he tried to climb Nanga Parbat from its Diamir Face, but he was repeatedly forced back by avalanches.
Messner was born on 17. September 1944 in Brixen, Italy. He is a former politician and an extreme explorer. He is the first person to climb Mount Everest without oxygen and has climbed fourteen other 8000ers without oxygen. In 1986, he became the second person to reach the Seven Summits. He has also conquered other mountains, including Antarktis, Gronland, and Wuste Gobi.
In 2008, Messner published his book, Nanga Parbat, which contains extensive archive material and historical photographs. It is an amazing book that traces the history of climbing Nanga Parbat from 1895 to 2005. The history of climbing Nanga Parbat begins with the first ascent of Mummery in 1895. The next few decades are described by Messner in detail.
