Rakaposhi is the third highest mountain in the world. It is located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is a craggy wall of ice and rock that is not easily conquered. Climbing it will require some physical strength and determination. However, if you are up to the challenge, the stunning views will be well worth the effort.
Rakaposhi is the world’s third highest mountain
In 1958, two American climbers – Mike Banks and Tom Patey – successfully scaled the world’s third highest mountain. They did so by using the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Although they reached the summit, both climbers suffered from minor frostbite and slipped and fell on their descent. Another climber died during the night.
There are two main routes to the summit. One is via the north face and the other is via the south-facing basecamp. Neither of these routes is easy, and there is a lot of climbing required. However, there are many options for getting there. The south-facing basecamp is the most popular option, and can be reached in three days. A private Landcruiser can be hired to cover the distance. This way, travelers can plan their own itinerary.
The climbing season on Rakaposhi is from June to September, with July and August being the busiest months. However, weather conditions can be unpredictable and snow can cause problems at any time of the year. The mountain’s base camp is free of charge, although some parts of the mountain’s ridges require a camping fee.
It is a massive wall of rock and ice
The Rakaposhi is one of the most beautiful mountains in the Karakoram region. It rises directly above the Hunza river valley and contrasts dramatically with the valley’s brown-gray rocks and white mountain glaciers. The summit offers great views of the Hunza valley, the Karakoram mountain range and Nagar valley. Climbers who make the trip can expect to get awestruck by the stunning scenery.
Another amazing sight in the area is the Drifika ice pyramid. This impressive structure is one of the most famous in all of Asia. It is a must-see destination for anyone who loves ice and rock. Its sheer, imposing walls make it a stunning sight.
You can easily conquer the base camp of Rakaposhi in two days. You can also explore the glacier, which is situated on a mini plateau and shadows of the Rakaposhi. At the base camp, you can enjoy soup and fresh bread from the local village. Be careful when exploring the glacier, because crevasses can create mini rivers of water.
There are various routes up the Rakaposhi. The main summit is accessed via the Southwest Spur (7338m), but the East ridge has yet to be conquered. Several expeditions have attempted the route, but none have been successful.
To approach the mountain from the NW, you can use the Minapin or Silking glaciers. From the south, you can use the Hispar glacier, which extends to Hispar La, which is 49 km long. It connects with the Biafo glacier.
It is an isolated oasis nestled in the shadows of a huge peak
A visit to Rakaposhi is a truly memorable experience. The isolated oasis is perched in the shadow of a huge mountain, and the village’s unique culture is reflected in its name. The mountain is 5,900 meters high and can be seen from the Karakoram Highway, which winds through the town of Nagar. From there, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and a view of the Rakaposhi from the Zero Point.
It is a difficult mountain to climb
There are two main approaches to the summit of Rakaposhi. One is the southwest spur, which leads directly up to the ridge. The other is the more difficult Nun’s Head Ridge, which begins near the Biro glacier. Both approaches lead to the summit, but the latter route is easier and passes gendarmes.
Both routes offer excellent views of the surrounding mountains, and a variety of flora and fauna. The South-West peak is approximately 6,200m (20,340ft) while the East-West peak rises to 6,096m (20,000ft). It is the highest point of the Rakaposhi range.
The north face of Rakaposhi is a massive wall of rock and ice that rises from the Naltar valley floor. Although the north face is notoriously treacherous, the south-facing route is more accessible and was first climbed by Indian climbers in 1960. The mountain’s summit offers grand views of the Hunza and Karakoram mountain ranges, as well as the Nagar Valley.
Climbing the mountain can be a daunting experience, but many climbers are willing to face the challenge. A Japanese expedition, led by Eiho Ohtani, reached the summit of Rakaposhi’s North Spur in 1979. Another expedition, led by Carl Herrligkofer, succeeded in climbing the elegant but technically challenging North Spur route in 1973.
The mountain’s north side can be accessed by side valleys towards the south. A few kilometers from the bottom of the valley, Rakaposhi reaches a height of 6000m. Two of the five 8000ers of Pakistan have been climbed in summer. There is little winter climbing activity on Rakaposhi. The main risks are avalanche danger and deep snow.
Climbers should know that the Naltar mountain range in Gilgit is very low by Karakoram standards, but the peaks above the upper valley attract climbers each year. Climbers can try the Sentinel, a moderately difficult alpine climb. Areas Gilgit Naltar valley is considered a serious mixed rock and snow climb. Climbers can also climb Rakaposhi from the west side, which is the easiest part of the mountain. Another route is via the eastern valley and Bagrot glacier.
Climbers can also take the lower Baltoro glacier, which lies between Concordia and Askole. Most climbers choose to head to the steep towers of Uli Biaho. This route also includes the imposing Shipton Spire.
